Armor/Tank upgrade guides?

Discussion in 'Vehicle Discussion' started by EaterOfBabies, Nov 29, 2012.

  1. Hey folks. Did some google searches and looked on these forums but I cant seem to find any comprehensive armor upgrade guides out there. I found Purp's helpful post but I was looking for something a little more in depth. Are my search skills just that bad?

    I roll TR so Im stuck with the prowler and Im trying to determine the most useful/essential upgrades for it. I've already got the cheap upgrades like the zoom on both weapons and the extra ammo for both. Where do I go from here? Best armor upgrades? Best weapon upgrade? Should I spring for the handling upgrade?

    Thanks in advance for any help you all can provide. Cheers.
  2. The thing about the Prowler at the moment is that its unique ability and its unique capability clash. The Prowler goes faster than the other MBTs.

    It benefits greatly from the Racer Chassis. With Rank 1, 62Kph, allowing you to get in and out of battle more quickly, as well as perform complex flanking maneuvers. I hear Rank 3 goes above 70Kph, possibly 75, but I haven't gotten enough points to check.

    The Deploy Mode goes counter to this by locking your vehicle down for faster reload. At max level, it looks like it turns into a fearsome artillery battery, but you lose a lot by locking your vehicle down, so I have a hard time justifying it.

    The primary HEAT gun is well-rounded. Stick with that, and it will treat you well.

    The secondary weapon I picked on someone else's recommendation was the Vulcan. It has a shorter magazine (30) but utterly tears through armor at 50-100m. With a competent secondary gunner, you will shred through most of your enemies.
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  3. Considering the whopping 5(!) percent the front armour gives, I'm pretty sure I'll never have a reason to buy it. Top would be my choice for facing enemies, since lobbed shells or rockets often hit the top of the vehicle. However, I'll probably end up using primarily side, so I can circle enemy tanks at speed and hit them with the cannons & vulcan.

    Reverse speed would be nice along with top armour for facing enemies, because when you need to retreat, that's the direction you'll have to go. For my approach I'll probably get top speed and acceleration. Running away is so much effort anyhow...

    I'm not sure why you would need the tank to rotate faster than it does, ever.
  4. As a secondary weapon, I highly suggest Vulcan / Halberd. Operating Vulcan is a bit hard though. And it is a bit more expensive. However, as said above, at close range, it shreds enemies. Halberd on the other hand, it does great damage against armor. But your gunner won't be able to do much against infantry.

    As primary weapon, I roll with HE. The 2-barrel, combined with HE ammo, obliterates infantry. To make up for my lack of damage against armor, I pick up a Halberd, if I'm going to shell from range, Vulcan if I'm going hot. For close combat situations, I recommend IRNV (infra-red night vision). For long range, naturally anything with higher zoom. Vulcan benefits from IRNV greatly, however, for Halberd, I stick to zoom optics. Avoid reload speed for a while, since the benefit : cert ratio is very, very low. Ammo count is always nice.

    As for the tank upgrades, anchored mode turns you into a shell-puking artillery-machine. However, I'd advise a mass dump on anchored mode, if you're going to grab this. Also, you may need a friendly ammo-sundy / ammo-tower to stand next to, or max ammo count, in order to utilize Anchored Mode greatly. Definitely a mid/long-range choice. If you are going close quarters, proximity radar may serve you very well. I wouldn't even bother with IR Smoke or Fire Suppression System... IR Smoke may save you for a while, same goes for Fire Suppression System, but both are highly situational to be honest (more than the other two anyway)

    Extra armors are very tiny... 5% for front or 10% top/side... Not much of a big deal, so I'd avoid those. Mine guard is highly situational & not many are using mines yet. Vehicle Stealth might be a choice if you are going up close. Auto-repair however, since damage disables it, it may never kick in a close-combat situation. That's why I'd suggest you for mid-long range engagements.

    Chassis wise, that is up to you. But, as I'm trying to be a long-range artillery, I am skipping these for a long while. But in the future, I think I'll utilize Racer chassis, to get the best speed out of my already-fast(er) Prowler.
  5. Recommended upgrades should be covered by your outfit in a private thread along with any armor training by the officers. Different outfits may have different recommended upgrades depending on their tactics used during ops engagements.
  6. They asked about tanks in general, or should every game related discussion be covered by their outfit in a private thread. Far as i know people are free to share game info as they please.
  7. And, like I mentioned before, this is situational depending on the outfit. For example, one NC outfit may recommend front armor, while another will recommend side armor. Another, without any air, will recommend top armor. There is no one-perfect configuration like many MMORPG players are accustomed to.

    Also, the OP WAS asking for specifics pertaining to the Prowler.
  8. so what? if you feel the post isnt related to your game play, don't bloody read it
  9. I haven't upgraded my Prowler yet but I will be soon. So far I've used the Marauder grenade launcher and Vulcan secondaries on other player's tanks. The Marauder was great at taking out infantry, especially where I was at the top of The Crown. But overall, I think the stock weapons are the best. The stock cannon and mg can take on anything.

    I'm planning on upgrading to racer chassis 3, side armor, stock weapons with zoom optics or infra red and increased ammo. AA is better served by having Skyguard lightnings around. After reading these forums it seems like everyone thinks the Prowler is weak tank on tank, but I disagree. Use your speed or help from allies and you will win tank battles. The real death of tanks is infantry. The Marauder really shined because it kills infantry easy and it flushes them from their cover. But my vote goes for the stock MG secondary because the Marauder is not that good at long range.
  10. I have my prowler fully outfitted for anti-infantry duty. This is currently the role this tank excels in and the main reason why many are unhappy with it. Personally I am content with shredding infantry and think the Prowler is fine how it is, but I have years of experience driving armored vehicles in many different FPS games, and know what I want and like. I easily pull off over 100 kills with less than 10 deaths in a few hours play with this setup. I mostly die to liberators, mines, or an enemy tank zerg ambush, but liberators with the 150mm Dalton are the biggest threat.

    The prowlers main advantage is its mobility. People argue the magrider is better in that aspect, but try driving one over some rough bumps and the tips of your front fins will get stuck, the prowler's traditional treads don't have that issue. Couple that with the Rival Chassis(I'm up to rank 2 right now), and you have easily the most maneuverable tank in the game. The only mobility advantage the Mag has over the Prowler is its ability to strafe and magburn, which makes it ***** impossible to hit at medium to long range if the driver is good, although the Prowler is nearly equally capable of doing this if the driver is good. Magriders also have issues fighting around tight corners(such as driving into a tower vehicle spawn), since the driver lacks a turret.

    Anyway to list my full set of equipment:

    Primary Weapon - P-120 HE
    - IR scope
    - Increased ammo capacity

    Secondary Weapon - P125 Marauder
    - IR scope
    - Increased ammo capacity

    Utility Slot - IR smoke

    Defense Slot - Reinforced side armor

    Performance Slot - Rival chassis

    If you know what you are doing this setup will absolutely dominate infantry, especially if you have a good gunner, as the IR scope will let him spot things for you so you can focus more on positioning. The major drawback to this setup is you are absolutely 100% helpless against air, unless they fly down and hover in your face, you're at the mercy of their guns unless you can quickly run to a rock, which I find myself doing quite a lot, and have barely survived many many air assaults.

    Naturally I play engineer with this setup and if you aren't playing engi you are GOING to lose your prowler, no question.

    As my engi I run the Trac 5 S with foregrip, compensator, soft point ammo, and 2x red dot sight, however I have all the sights unlocked and swap them out as needed, as well as the AMR-66 for extremely long range. My repair tool is at rank 4 and is fairly adequate, but I choose to retreat and repair a LOT(usually every time I get hit), instead of take a bunch of damage and nearly die, then repair. I use nanoweave armor to prevent myself getting one shotted by the odd infiltrator that may be waiting for me to hop out and repair.

    Need any further clarification let me know, hope this helps, also, this setup is capable of fighting armor, but you need to employ hit and run tactics, do NOT 1v1 an enemy MBT or anti-tank lightning head on with this, you will lose.
  11. Depends on your playstyle. Here's my playstyle and how I've configurated my prowler for it. if the playstyle suits you, try to consider it.

    I play as a Tank hunter, and Sunderer killer, I focus on flanking enemies and deal as much damage as I can before I get the hell out. This works especially good in small groups of tanks (2 prowlers and a lightning forexample).

    The config we go with is as follows:

    Defense Slot:
    Stealth The success of a sunderer raid, can be directly connected to wether they notive you before you attack or not, if they are all HA with launchers out before you are in your "golden range" you are toast.

    Utility slot:
    IR smoke, Not only can you break locks, but on hilly terrain, you can use it to break line of sight when running for your life. =)

    Performance:
    Since this setup is for up close, we use Racer. Racer gives 70 kph extra on speed, and makes you loose less of your speed with small inclines, or uneven terrain.

    Primary:
    Stock HEAT cannon - when you get up close you can't afford to loose AI ability.

    Primary-attachments:
    IR-Scope - Highlights infantry, and most importantly lets you see throught smoke clouds!

    Secondary:
    Vulcan chain-gun - With the latest changes this gun is perfect for this fighting style, Nice frontloaded damage, and versatility, its pretty good against aircraft, and with a good gunner even infantry. (burst them bullets good!) Meaning all the **** that normally ruins your day when yo are in small packs.

    Secondary-attachments:
    IR-scope - See above.
    Magasine capacity - Better frontloaded damage, and bigger margin of error when shooting infantry/Aircraft.


    This is not the only build for this sort of combat, The Marauder forexample is very good when facing sunderers, and not everyone looks at minimap, so stealth is less important in those cases too, and for that reason some outfit mates have things like front armor etc.
    This is the build, that me and the mates i normally "wolf pack" with, have adopted.

    Also if you ever decide to roll a small group and bring a lightning give him something else other then stealth, Especially true if its a skyguard. You won't believe how good bait a skyguard shooting into the air is. =P

    EDIT: Noticed I didn't write what to prioritise so here's a list to start with.

    Upgrade priority:
    1. IRNV for HEAT
    2. Secondary gun of your choice (only if you have dedicated gunner), otherwise I'd say the first rank in the performance upgrade of your choice, dw about maxing it till much later however.
    3. If you got secondary gun, get IRNV for it, otherwise get smoke.
    At this point you'll have played enought I think to tell what upgrade to get next. general idea is, if you run out of ammo, faster then you die, then get more ammo, if you die too much get attachments to remedy that, I think you'll have your own idea by this point.
  12. I'm going to agree with Llaf that it is not best to engage another tank 1v1. I'm also going to agree with Naithe on the Vulcan. The reason I am posting again is to change my initial opinion on keeping the stock secondary. I had more experience using the Vulcan on my friend's tank. This gun will decimate anything that gets close enough. Low flying air (more common than it seems) and any armor that tries to close in on you is fair game. The Vulcan also has a high enough rate of fire to take on infantry. And to top it all off the Vulcan's range isn't as short as you think.

    I don't think which performance upgrade you choose will be that important, both are probably good. So after having more experience in game I am going to say that my vote for an Armor/upgrade guide on the Prowler would be:

    120mm HEAT (Stock cannon)
    Vulcan
    Ammo upgrades
    Side Armor

    The Vulcan is a sweet gun, I say you go for it when you get the CERTs. I was having a field day blasting scythes, galaxies, reavers and especially liberators while defending the crown (TR Crown Defense Force squad REPRESENT!! :) ). The Vulcan will shred armor you encounter too like Sunderers, Lightnings, etc. And last but not least, infantry can't escape the rate of fire. So check it out
  13. When I rolled TR tanks, I used stealth, IR smoke, racer chassis, the stock 120mm HEAT and a Vulcan top gun. As everybody in their right mind has surely said by now, don't use the lockdown ability. Sneak up on the enemy tanks and flank 'em or catch 'em in the rear. Pop smoke and relocate if things are hotter than you'd like, smoke often confuses the enemy and I couldn't tell you why.

    It's a pretty risky way to play, but it's rewarding if you can pull it off and you'll be the belle of the ball when you make enemy armour go away.
  14. What's better for Vanguard, Racer or Rival Chassis?
  15. Thanks for all the responses. Very good advice in here. Out of curiosity, how far have you all gone on your acquisition timer reductions? So far I think I got to the 100 cert one and have paused there.

    Also, I got to play with a Vulcan this weekend and I was impressed. A low flying Lib was trying to hide in a canyon and didn't see us approaching. I put a full clip into him and his health vanished like a magic trick. I was impressed to say the least...
  16. I've gone up to 100 cert. Plan to cert the rest of the way once my weapons are up to par.

    AND THE VULCAN IS THE MANLIEST WEAPON IN THE WORLD.
  17. Here's my setup for my prowler and any suggestions I have.
    Main Gun: P2-120 AP
    Secondary: E540 Halberd
    Defense: Top Armor
    Utility: IR Smoke Launcher
    Performance: Racer High Speed Chassis

    Notes: I made an Anti-Tank tank basically. The key to kicking *** with the prowler is speed and being a bit sneaky. You have to find ways of getting behind the enemy as fast as possible, blow the ever living crap out of them, and run into the night before his team mates can jump you because the prowler is really not meant for toe-to-toe combat.
    Going with the P2-120 HEAT as a main or Vulcan as a secondary are good choices as well depending on what you're looking to kill and your play style. The vulcan tears EVERYTHING to shreads but runs out of ammo extremely fast and has a very, very short range in the form of fast bullet drop (so you can hit far away targets with it if you know how to arc the gun) and it also has very poor accuracy. But by no means is the Vulcan a "bad gun".
    The HEAT does more damage but the damage is reduced more by armor resistances (while the AP does a bit less damage but ignore most of the armor). So the HEAT will kill a tank faster if you only hit them in the butt but AP kills them faster if you're hitting their sides or front. The HEAT also has an AOE (which the AP doesn't) to help kill any foot units but since they like to hide in little cracks and crevases I usually ignore them cause it's best to keep moving. I wouldn't even bother getting the HE since the HEAT fills that roll nicely, but that's my opinion.
  18. More Notes:
    Also I have the top armor since it seems like air are tank's bane. It'll help a little bit against planes but not too much. Maybe enough to get away? It does block a lot of damage from base cannons though. And the IR smoke is good for getting away (like a ninja) and breaking locks on you while you're darting about.
    And with Racer High Speed at level 3 I go about 72 KPH on flat road which is a little faster than a lightning.
  19. Is stealth any good? I've always wondered this and have been reluctant in putting points into it. Any mechanics knowledge on how it works in the game besides the description?
  20. You do not appear on the map unless you are physically spotted at almost point-blank range, with Q at medium/long range , or your gunner fires.

    I've had to boot out gunners who seem to enjoy shooting at absolutely nothing in my stealth tank.

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